REJOICE IN THE LAMB-SHANKS BRITTEN
What more appropriate dish to associate with Benjamin Britten, a composer who centered many of his works around themes related to the sacrifice of innocence? Of course, the center of this easy-to-prepare recipe is lamb, whose universal image of tender, sweet innocence is transformed into a rich, assertively aromatic, intensely flavorful dish. While tenderness certainly is one of its more appealing features (you can leave your knife in the drawer!), this recipe, as with Britten’s music – also boasts more assertive qualities, from its rosemary-tinged aroma to its garlic-infused, wine-based braising juices. There’s also a lovely sweetness to the slow-cooked meat that – also like Britten’s music – touches the senses in ways that only makes you want more. Rejoice in the Lamb, the work that gives this dish its name, is a cantata for chorus, four soloists, and organ, set to unusual and strongly imagistic poetry of Christopher Smart. Although simple and compact in structure, each one of its few ingredients – as with the recipe at hand – contributes an essential layer of flavor and texture that together create a bold, powerfully affecting masterpiece. David Vernier
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| Benjamin Britten: Rejoice in the Lamb Op. 30Recommended recordings:The Sixteen (Coro)
Choir of St. John’s College, Cambridge (Naxos) Saint Thomas Choir of Men and Boys (Koch) Purcell Singers (Decca) |
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Ingredients: 3-4 meaty lamb shanks (approx. 4 lbs) trimmed of fat 3 tablespoons olive oil 3 cups hearty red wine 1 cup vegetable broth 4 sprigs fresh rosemary 1 medium sweet onion, quartered then sliced–but not thinly 4-6 garlic cloves, minced 4 carrots, cut in half lengthwise then sliced into half-inch pieces sea salt fresh ground pepper 2 large, fresh bay leaves large, heavy-bottomed (preferably enameled cast iron) Dutch oven (large enough to hold the shanks in a single layer) with tight-fitting lid sheet of foil or parchment cut slightly larger than the Dutch oven opening 1. Preheat oven to 350º2. Season lamb with salt and pepper3. Heat 2 tablespoons olive oil in Dutch oven over medium heat; when hot, not smoking, brown lamb on all sides (use tongs to turn); don’t crowd the pan; if all the shanks won’t fit comfortably in the bottom, use a bigger pot or less shanks. 4. When thoroughly browned, remove lamb and set aside; pour off excess oil; add the remaining tablespoon of fresh oil, then the vegetables, rosemary, garlic, and bay leaves, stirring over medium/medium-low heat until the onions are soft and just beginning to brown. 5. Add one cup of the wine and deglaze the pan as it comes to a boil; reduce heat and simmer. 6. Return the lamb to the pot, arranging the shanks side by side; add the rest of the wine and the broth; press foil or parchment loosely down inside the pot so it just covers the lamb; place lid on pot and put in oven. Braise for 2 hours, adding more broth or wine if needed during the last 30 minutes. Serve alongside brown rice accompanied by gently steamed asparagus finished with a squeeze of lemon. If you wish a very rich sauce, remove lamb and vegetables to a platter with a slotted spoon and keep warm. Bring juices in the pot to a boil and reduce liquid to half. Season with salt and pepper to taste. |
