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ONION, CHEESE, AND CHORIZO FRITTATA BEETHOVEN

David Hurwitz

ONION, CHEESE, AND CHORIZO FRITTATA BEETHOVEN
This rustic dish evokes the flavors of the countryside: farm fresh eggs, spicy Spanish chorizo sausage, onions, and a pinch of thyme. The secret ingredient here is Idiazábal, a delicious smoked hard cheese, also from Spain, that gives the whole dish a depth and richness that belies its simplicity. If you can’t find Idiazábal (many cheese shops and good supermarkets carry it) then substitute smoked cheddar or smoked provolone (though use an ounce less of the latter if the taste is very sharp or salty). And speaking of qualities of depth and richness that belie simplicity: witness Beethoven’s “Pastoral” Symphony – that ultimate expression of joy in nature. One of the best things about frittatas is that they taste just fine at room temperature, so if, like Beethoven in the symphony’s second movement, you find yourself picnicking by a shady brook, feel free to take this satisfying dish along with you. For city dwellers, people with allergies, or the just plain nature-averse, this dish reheats marvelously when nuked for a minute or two in the microwave oven. David Hurwitz

Recommended recordings:

Beethoven: Symphony No. 6 “Pastoral”

Vienna Philharmonic/Karl Böhm (DG “Originals” or Eloquence)

Staatskapelle Dresden/Herbert Blomstedt (Brilliant Classics)

Heidelberg Symphony/Thomas Fey (Haenssler Classics)

Philharmonia Orchestra/Otto Klemperer (EMI)


About Frittatas: Many cookbooks give a frankly awkward method for cooking frittatas that involves doing the whole thing on top of the stove and either finishing under the broiler (not a good idea if you don’t want to vaporize your nonstick cookware), or flipping the wet frittata over onto a plate and sliding it back into the skillet, or some other similarly treacherous maneuver. The oven method noted above is foolproof, and avoids the risk of burning the frittata on the top or bottom (or both). If you want an even heartier dish, feel free to dice a medium waxy potato and cook it with the sausages until soft, then proceed as directed. Frittatas are generally described in cookbooks as a “light” meal, but in fact they are often just the opposite, particularly when stuffed to the gills with meat, veggies, and starches. This one makes a very filling main course. Finally, Frittatas are very forgiving, and you can modify any of the quantities given above (within reason of course) to suit your taste. Feel free to improvise and make this recipe your own.

Ingredients:
8 large eggs
4 ounces Idiazábal cheese, grated
2 dry chorizo sausages (about 4-6 ounces total) sliced into thin rounds
1 large or two medium regular yellow onions (not one of the big Spanish ones) thinly sliced
1/2 teaspoon of dried thyme, crushed between your fingers when added
A dash or two of Tabasco or other hot sauce
Salt and Pepper
Note: You will need a 10-inch, nonstick ovenproof skillet for this recipe such as those made by Calphalon, All-Clad, or any other quality brand which is heat resistant to 400+ degrees. This recipe comes together quickly, so make sure to slice and shred the vegetables and cheese before you start cooking.

1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

2. Over medium heat, cook the sausage in the skillet to render most of the fat, about 10 minutes or so. Remove the sausage to a plate, and pour out all but a thin film of fat.

3. Add the onions and cook until soft and just starting to brown, stirring often, about 10 – 15 minutes.

4. While the onions are cooking, break the eggs into a bowl and whisk them gently until the yolks and whites are just blended. Add the cheese, rub in the thyme between your fingers, add a few drops of Tabasco, about a teaspoon of salt, and freshly ground pepper to taste. Stir to blend the ingredients.

5. When the onions are cooked, return the sausage to the pan, spread the mixture evenly on the bottom, then pour in the egg mixture.

6. Cook on top of the stove over medium-low heat for two or three minutes just to set the eggs on the bottom, then put the skillet in the preheated oven and bake until firm: check after 10 minutes, but you can cook it for as long as 15 – 20 if you like your eggs well done (I do). In any case, the frittata will puff up, start to pull away from the sides of the skillet, and look dry on top through to the middle. Remember, this is a sturdy “egg cake” and not a delicate omelet. You’re better off cooking it a bit more rather than a bit less.

7. Remove the skillet carefully from the oven (use mitts, the handle will be very hot!), and slide the frittata onto a plate. Cut into wedges and serve, or let cool, wrap in foil, refrigerate, and eat portions over the next couple of days. It works excellently for breakfast, lunch, or supper!

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